At Jessco Motorcycle Works we see the obvious need for a alternative solution. For example, look at the K3's 769A carburetor body below.

The photo above is showing a 1978 K3 GL1000 Keihin carburetor body that is beyond repair by most any home mechanic trying to service their motorcycle. Notice the pitted aluminum? This is the result of a poor aluminum alloy mixture from Honda that over time renders the carburetor body incapable of maintaining internal circuit specifications. With clearly visible pitting that is easily seen at the exterior surfaces, there is additional pitting that cannot be seen internally that affects the carburetors abillity to properly maintain the mixing of fuel and air. The aluminum has become brittle and no longer is as it was meant to be. Float Pivot Stanchions are easily broken because of this, as shown above.

"But I want to keep my bike all stock."

There are certainly many reasons to keeping a classic Goldwing induction in stock form. Value, appearance or other personal choices can be some of the many reasons to keep your original Keihin factory carb-rack operational as best you can. If you plan to actually persue riding your motorcycle, this may be of no interest to you though.

"What should I do? ...I want to Ride!"

If you plan on maintaining a questionable Keihin carburetor rack for a motorcycle that you plan to actually ride, then seeking a professional carburetor restorer is your best solution. I cannot stress the importance enough of seeking a true professional that has a love for carburetor repair and restoration, as there are many whom simply "know enough" to swap parts and assume the best out of hope. A true restoration specialist would turn-away 9 out of 10 carburetor racks they come across due to the inability for the rack to maintain specification. Yours may certainly be one of those, so be prepared for the potential expense involved.

"OK, I want the best for my bike, but where do I go?"

Our best advice is to find the best parts you can afford. This generally means approaching Honda for OEM parts and supplies, as they are both designer and manufacturer of the carburetors.

Again, be prepared to have a thorough inspection performed of your carburetor rack by a qualified restoration specialist with the likely potential that it may not be serviceable at any cost. A true professional restorer may be hard to find.

"What do Competitors say?"

First of all importance, there are none, and there never has been. Jessco is the first to offer a all-aluminum, flange-to-flange and heated intake manifold for the GL1000. The exhaust tubing denziens don't even qualify. As a Leader in this field of GL induction with no comparison we are forced to look at the musings of Randall "Randakk" Washington on the subject of our manifold in a statement from him last year to Jessco:

"P.S. I can see that you've made some good design decisions with your single carb design. I've experimented with much of what I see. I know that those elements make your design clearly superior compared to most recent efforts..."

Unfortuneately, Randakk's Cycle Shakk had nothing but our unitized manifold picture at the top of this page and his recent "evaluation" of the LD Welch conversion to base any opinion on when he contacted us with the above, which was after placing a link on his "Tech-Tip #43" webpage without our knowledge or consent in an apparent effort to control webpage-ranking of web search results that would steer you to the above biased webpage. We've denied his request to "evaluate" any of our manifolds because of this practice, and believe he is not qualified to do so in any future event.

We welcome a Professional Evaluation from any party who can remain un-biased in their practiced effort.

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We are not re-inventing the wheel here.

We simply persued the same design approach with our motorcycles.

The Lancia Example

A Time-Proven Design Concept

(that absolutely looks oh-so familiar)

The first water-cooled flat-four engine of Lancia's Flavia Berlina introduced a single

Weber 32DCH-equipped unitized coolant-heated intake manifold, setting engineering

standards in 1960 that surpassed Ferrari, Maserati and even Alfa Romeo. Most manufacturers,

up to the switch to fuel-injection, used unitized (read: Rigid) (and sometimes un-heated)

intake manifolds for their single carburetor fuel induction systems.

The Weber Example

A very RARE and now VERY expensive Weber unitized manifold for the Subaru 1300G JDM Sport engine of 1970.

Heated by engine coolant, this was the ultimate Subaru manifold for racing classes requiring single carburetor induction.

Small displacement engines were common to lower classes of racing over four decades ago. Edoardo Weber not

only made the best carburetors in the world, he also made many of the best intake manifolds and

complete induction conversion kits available to anyone, anywhere in the world.

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Jessco Manifolds Would Like To Acknowledge:

Tom Langdon of "Langdon's Stovebolt" for taking the time and effort in having us realize the absolute and undeniable need for heat with our single-carb manifold plenum floor. As a retired engine development engineer (Chevrolet and General Motors Powertrain Division) with vast induction experience, his word was final on our dilema to heat or not to heat. Our driveability problems disappeared as a result of his time, effort and knowledge. We needed guideance and Tom gave it freely without reserve. Our research and development costs were greatly reduced due to his sound advice and input.

Below are excerpts from Tom's "Why you need to heat your intake manifold"

"...there is no provision or instructions to provide heat…Why?? I don’t know and could only guess. In any event heat will be required to achieve good driving response and reasonable fuel economy. Here’s why;

As liquid fuel enters the manifold from the carburetor, the vacuum vaporizes the fuel and causes a chilling effect on the walls of the manifold much like the chilling effect of spraying an aerosol on your skin. Now you have a cold manifold. If you do not have a continuous supply of heat the manifold will remain cold and even build frost under some conditions. At this point, if an acceleration is attempted, the vacuum will drop, fuel will no longer vaporize, and will in fact condense on the cold manifold walls until they are fully saturated with wet fuel – this takes about three seconds, during which time no fuel is going into the engine (and thus no power or a “sag”). After the walls are fully saturated with fuel the air flow finally picks up this ultra rich mixture and floods some of the cylinders but not all of them because liquid fuel is notoriously bad for equal distribution.

More fuel (bigger jets) will only slightly help this problem and actually worsen the over rich condition and spark plug fouling and fuel economy.

The solution: Moderate, and continuous heat supply to keep the walls of the inlet manifold warm and the fuel in vapor form. Exhaust heat is fast but requires a butterfly valve in one manifold to force the exhaust flow. Water heat is slower but very clean and not corrosive to aluminum manifolds. This method utilizes the water pump to continuously supply warm water to a passage underneath the manifold. (See attached drawing.) It is sometimes necessary to weld a tube to the manifold, but be sure to obtain intimate contact between the coolant and the manifold wall or floor. Simply tack welding a closed wall pipe to the bottom of the manifold will not result in sufficient heat transfer."

Jessco Knows Performance with help from Stovebolt Tom Langdon

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'78-'79 GL1000 14A Bolt-On Accessory Alternator

A redundant, additional, or seperate power and charging source independant of the factory charging system.

A direct bolt-on kit requiring little knowledge of electrics, minimal tools and no modification of engine components.

No crankshaft/camshaft pulley conversion - No drilling of the cam belt covers.

Run those extra lights without fear of taxing the factory charging system.

Installation takes less than 30 minutes.

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READ THIS CAREFULLY: Absolutely, Positively NO Returns or Refunds

Our responsibility is what you see on this page and nothing more. Insure your shipping from us. We've run our stock '78 GL1000 with the parts above for the last 8,000 plus miles in temperatures from -12°F to over 100°F in dry, wet, humid, not humid, fog, sleet, ice and snow, and any other pleasant or miserable condition we could possibly find since last years riding season began, from in-town stop-and-go rush-hour to the open highway at 80mph for hours with the manifold both heated and un-heated without failure of any kind. We know this combination like the back of our own hands with the first 5,000 or so miles using points before switching to a DYNA ignition module. We STRONGLY suggest that if you are not a competent GL1000 mechanic with fabrication skills, or plan not to use such a person, to close your browser now and forget that you ever stumbled across this webpage.

This is our advice to you, ...our prospective Friend.

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Some Words of Caution and Note to our prospective Friends:

Other individuals and their websites, those with interests in selling you reproduction carburetion parts, or those with a third-rate internet forum selling trinkets and webspace-for-profit aligned with these older Goldwings and each other, would have you believe with impunity their story of our proven induction design. They will conjure-up mezmorizing hypotheses with failed attempts of their own pasts without evidence, proclaiming future doom for you and our manifold if united. Like Sorcerers conjuring magical spells on unsuspecting Ladies-of-the-Night, they've hopes that you, their prospective customer, their prospective member, believe in them, buy from them, and in the end, thank the necromantic ego controlling them. They will tell you they've tried it, done it, and heard it all before, claiming dismal results fortified by technoglorious opinion from their keyboards with astonishing experience.

Unfortunate by right, what they are really claiming is failure by experience in matters where we have succeeded and excelled.

Good Luck, and may your ride be a trouble-free ride.

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Sales - Ashley @ 605-000-0000

Promotion - Samantha @ 605-000-0000

Technical - Steve @ 605-271-7697